The Emerald Coast stretches about 100 miles along the Gulf of Mexico and the state of Florida, and its name reflects the emerald-green waves rolling across white sandy beaches. Almost 50 years ago in Destin, or was it Panama City, I was the lone surfer on a borrowed surfboard waiting in stormsurf of 5-10ft. waves for that perfect ride. Several years before I had learned to surf when I worked on the waterfront at Camp Rio Vista in Kerrville, Texas, where we would spend many of our days off surfing the beaches around Port Aransas, Texas.
As I sat in the middle of the board with my legs dangling in the water I saw the biggest fish I had ever seen inside the approaching swell. Was it a dolphin or a shark, it happened so fast I wasn’t sure, so I lifted my feet out of the water, lay down on the board and paddled in. The mother who was chaperoning the girls from the beach house where I’d borrowed the board had posted a girl on the beach to watch me surf. I told her my story and we watched for signs of a shark or a dolphin pod, but in a little less than an hour I was back in the water waiting for that perfect ride, for I had been growing my life skills as a storm surfer.
Today, I start radiation on my right 7th rib, feeling the stormsurf building I have been readying myself for the challenges that come with such a ride. As I paddled out through my morning prayers and meditation for this radiation ride, I found many friends paddling out with me, and turned to find more on the beach watching and waving. I realized even storm surfers don’t do life alone, and that is what makes each ride so special.
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